6 September 2006

Fingerboard choices

Several folk have emailed to ask about choosing a good fingerboard and how to use it once you have one. A fingerboard doesn't need to be fancy in any way, it just needs to be used! All it needs is to have a small enough edge that's first joint (20mm is good) and to have a rounded edge and smooth surface so your skin doesn't hurt. That's all. Above is my fingerboard. It's an S7 campus rung screwed to my doorframe. You could easily make the equivalent for a few pounds from B&Q. One like this instead of a big orange resin moulded thing is less intrusive in your living room too.

I've written some notes about how to use them in my rough guide to physical training on my main site (on page 4 here). The key thing about fingerboards the workouts are very short - play a CD through as you do your hangs, and you're done. The flip side is you need to keep up the dangling for a large part of the year to keep moving up through grades. Most people get bored with them either because they don't like training on their own or the activity itself seems to monotonous. Put your fingerboard up in your living room or kitchen and use as you watch the box, chat to partners, or whatever you spend a lot of time doing.

I've heard people say of fingerboards "but they are only for people who are strong", as if somehow if you lead VS it wont make any difference. Fingerboards make weak people strong. If you are weak, then you need them more than anyone!"

More articles about fingerboarding on the Moon site here


Anonymous said...

What I find hard by using a fingerboard is that I can hang with two hands + aditional weight easily (unles is more then 40kg), but I can´t perform one arm deadhangs. I have 1cm edge. What should I do?


Dave MacLeod said...

Both the articles I have linked to have details of how to do this. You can use 4 fingers on one hand, and less on the other (and then swap). you can use one arm and some sort of support of your choice (bungee, a pulley weight, hand on something else etc...lots of options).

Anonymous said...

Thanks for your fast answer. But here´s the problem. You see with any sort of support it gets too easy, also with four fingers versus one on oposite hand, but still imposible with one hand

Dave MacLeod said...

I answered in a new post above.

Anonymous said...

A friend of mine told me about training with a fingerboard so I trained with one over winter and already this year I am finding that I am climbing a hell of a lot better.

Anonymous said...

Hi Dave!
I've made a fingerboard 20mm from wood and for a couple of week i'm perform at it. I have a question: What's the recuperation time between every set? I make 10 sets 20 sec hanging, with 1 min of wait between them.
Thank you!

Dave MacLeod said...

search my articles pages on davemacleod.com and you will find my information about good practice on the fingerboard.

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Constantin Gabor said...

Good point!
I built my own fingerboard and I believe it's more functional than a resin one. I can customize it how I want just like an indoor climbing wall - I simply move or add holds.

Anonymous said...

Hi! Great tips this one. I've mounted a 20mm woodpiece now and started to hang! My firends have a concern though. There's no sloper nor pinch. In my imagination the open hand grip translates well to slopers and open crimp to pich but what's your opinion here? Mabye it would be benificial to make angles on the woodedge to make for some sloperstrenght?

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