On my main blog I just added the video above about a new 8b I did in Glen Nevis. It was climbed in temperatures of Minus 2 or 3 with a li...

In the comments of my last post , John asked about how to avoid crimping all the time and hence reduce the build up of stress and microscopi...

About a month ago, on the crux sidepull of Muy Caliente E10 6c, I tore a ligament in my DIP joint of my left index finger. I spent the rest ...

In observing climbers I’m always looking for running themes that tend to characterise successful climbers versus the unsuccessful ones. My d...

Mark makes the simple but seemingly obvious point about why the health promotion sector has been roundly failing to get people to change th...

Some themes that commonly emerge when coaching movement technique with climbers. Thanks to Rick Marland for the pics from Big Rock at the w...

Leah from the THXTHXTHX blog reminds us that pain has some superb qualities and is worth listening to if you work your body hard. Listen ...

A couple of months ago I reviewed the Instinct slippe r which I’ve since been wearing for all my indoor bouldering. Next up on Scarpa’s new...

If you wanted to learn how to mess up your training and stay as crap as possible at climbing, or better still injured and disillusioned with...

I’ve not posted on basic technique for a while, so here is something that my own summer of trad has been reminding me of recently. In trad c...