Some of you commented from my last post asking if you could use light climbing as active rest between hard climbing days, and how to judge t...

I have been reading many books recently in research for a book I am writing. Reading texts on different aspects of professional sport, and t...

My sponsors Scarpa have several major new rockshoe models coming through this year. First up of these is the instinct slipper . Trying the...

Whenever I post on this blog about the nitty gritty of strength or endurance training regimens, many comments come back looking for a more d...

My last post and comments from them reminded me of a significant problem in training for climbing, or anything where you train component ski...

A lot of climbers get in touch asking about using Lewis reaction icing on other injuries besides finger pullies. The goal of the treatment i...

Several climbers have picked up on routines floating about the web advocating very short rest periods between sets on the fingerboard - like...

Since the explosion of bouldering, especially indoors, many climbers ask these days about how they should improve their body tension. Howeve...

Recent days coaching in big bouldering walls reminded me of a potential specificity problem of using these for training for outdoor hard pro...

Loads of you have been asking for more info on the rehab work I’ve been doing on my elbows of late. I’ve been really impressed and heartened...