For the past 4 years or so, I have been working on a book about climbing injuries. It spells out in detail how to treat them once you ha...

Every day I get emails from climbers who have had success in their climbing after reading 9 out of 10 climbers . Thanks to everyone who le...

This blog post makes quite a basic but often overlooked point about technique habits. Over the past 5 years, the awareness of climbers in...

I guess foot off bouldering was what folk did before campus boarding got so popular. It’s now pretty out of fashion as a strength trainin...

...And what not to do. Movement technique, within a given climber, is not a fixed quality. It changes depending on  the constraints t...

Over the winter I got more involved in bouldering again and thought a lot about what’s changing among boulderers. There are a lot of grea...

The story behind this new problem from yesterday is on my main blog here. But I wanted to share a couple of lessons I learned from a...

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. ...

When coaching climbers I’m constantly trying to encourage them to set up a routine both in themselves and as a group of peers climbing to...

Following on from my last post about learning technique, another thought following my recent travels. I was speaking about risk and decis...

I’m just back from various coaching sessions around the UK. After a little break from coaching over the summer, I’ve come to it with fres...

The limiting factor in your rate of improvement can sometimes be something that never changes throughout your climbing career. That’s not...

I was just talking on my main blog about my own training over the past few weeks, building a base of strength and addressing various fitness...

Some themes that commonly emerge when coaching movement technique with climbers. Thanks to Rick Marland for the pics from Big Rock at the w...

I’ve not posted on basic technique for a while, so here is something that my own summer of trad has been reminding me of recently. In trad c...

Cubby throws in another drop knee, Glen Etive A session with Mr Cuthbertson got me thinking of changes in movement fashions in climbing si...

Climbers I’ve coached are sometimes quite dramatically split on their ability to try hard. A lot of them can move well on the rock, have fin...