...And what not to do. Movement technique, within a given climber, is not a fixed quality. It changes depending on  the constraints t...

For me and many others, sweaty hands is a serious pain in the ass for indoor climbing or in warm climates. It may be because your hands a...

Yes this is still a post about the usual subject; training for climbing. The old (but still just as important) mantra ‘work your weakness...

Finally we’ve got hold of some stock of Hague and Hunter’s new book ‘Redpoint’ in the shop ( right here ). The authors are most famous ...

I went bouldering outdoors for the first time in two months yesterday. Lochaber deluge enforced indoor training regime. I was shocked...

If you see people in action during training (it’s easiest to observe in a traditional weights/cardio gym), it’s not hard to notice that t...

Recently I’ve been coaching a lot of sport climbing and spent lots of time trying to get climbers to recognise that leading confidence is...

The limiting factor in your rate of improvement can sometimes be something that never changes throughout your climbing career. That’s not...

On my main blog I just added the video above about a new 8b I did in Glen Nevis. It was climbed in temperatures of Minus 2 or 3 with a li...

In observing climbers I’m always looking for running themes that tend to characterise successful climbers versus the unsuccessful ones. My d...

If you wanted to learn how to mess up your training and stay as crap as possible at climbing, or better still injured and disillusioned with...

Tim just did a new E10. Looks fantastic. He mentioned in his blog post about it that he used glycogen dumping to help him close the deal on...

Finding the most efficient pace in repointing is huge area and isn’t as simple as climbers might hope. The basics of pacing are that it’s a ...

Paul sent through a mail with questions about choosing different fits of rock shoes for different climbing objective, as well as using other...

I’ve written a lot on this site and recently in my Coachwise series on the MCofS site about the crippling and often hidden consequences of f...

I’ve talked before about fear of falling - how climbers underestimate how much it’s limiting them, and that the only way to beat it is to at...

It’s funny how quickly and readily fashions spread through climbing. Lycra, slang terms like ‘Send it dude!’ and...  Screaming. In the e...

Justin asks: “I regularly find the difference between success and failure on a route can be distilled down to state of mind on the day - the...

Following on from my last post where I said people often email and tell me what grades they climb in different disciplines and ask how they ...

Many of you have been asking about split tips (cuts in the fingertip pad, usually from using small sharp crimps and most often in the index ...