tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post9127089923346805141..comments2024-03-18T11:58:24.478+00:00Comments on Online Climbing Coach: Pulley injuries articleDave MacLeodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-31877252676100219272015-05-11T12:27:40.820+01:002015-05-11T12:27:40.820+01:00Have you read Make or Break Alison? The informatio...Have you read Make or Break Alison? The information in that is very extensive for both prevention and treatment. Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-62575301558107668952015-05-10T23:24:08.508+01:002015-05-10T23:24:08.508+01:00Hey Dave,
I've had pain and a possible tear ...Hey Dave, <br /><br />I've had pain and a possible tear of my A1 pulleys of my ring finger on both hands. One healed up with a ganglion formation on the injury, and the other I just recently injured. Not crimping, not losing footing and holding on by my fingertips.... Just climbing in the gym. A twinge and then pain at the touch in the area below my second knuckle. Any idea why I might be doing this, and any ideas about how to best treat? I'm way more interested in prevention, and will follow the advice on this blog, but I'd like to not blow out all my tendons... <br />Thanks,<br /><br />AlisonAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14780961388033719656noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-66901642730809323292015-02-20T10:39:45.967+00:002015-02-20T10:39:45.967+00:00Sure thing - and thanks for commenting. It's s...Sure thing - and thanks for commenting. It's so critical that people understand the complex and case-specific using the treatments on offer. That was one of the reasons Make or Break became such a big book!Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-13324915242738603682015-02-19T19:55:34.587+00:002015-02-19T19:55:34.587+00:00Fair enough---I didn't mean to imply there are...Fair enough---I didn't mean to imply there are never appropriate situations for NSAID use, only that for most people, most of the time a better choice is acetaminophen---especially if they are treating their injury outside the supervision of a medical professional. I realized [before commenting] this is an old article and that your new book likely contained a more up-to-date and extensive discussion, I just figured I would mention it here since your web article is still well-frequented and likely a common source of advice for injured climbers.<br /><br />No need to publish this comment if you don't want; I couldn't find a way to privately contact you via Blogger and figured this would be the most effective way!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15475982766130135985noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-18334894130461035132015-02-19T11:51:24.247+00:002015-02-19T11:51:24.247+00:00Brian, This is a 5 year old article and now super...Brian, This is a 5 year old article and now superseded by a more up to date and extensive discussion in Make or Break. You may be broadly right about NSAIDs although that debate is far from over and it remains a possibility that very limited and short term use of NSAIDs in specific situations may be useful situations, especially where an error in rehab results in excessive inflammation. I do not use it myself, but it's important to be clear that the research is as yet far from conclusive that it should not be used in any circumstance.Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-43838643022198612852015-02-19T11:50:13.303+00:002015-02-19T11:50:13.303+00:00This comment has been removed by the author.Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-7043723987343286902015-02-18T15:40:43.829+00:002015-02-18T15:40:43.829+00:00Just mildly tweaked my finger, and I stumbled upon...Just mildly tweaked my finger, and I stumbled upon this article. Interesting read, I'll have to get your book next!<br /><br />One thing, though: NSAIDs are generally not recommended anymore for any sort of tissue injury because they delay the healing process through the same mechanism that kills the pain. A safer analgesic is acetaminophen (Tylenol), at least as long as you stay below the max recommended daily dose; acetaminophen isn't an NSAID, so it doesn't mess with inflammation at all.<br /><br />Again, great read, thanks for sharing!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15475982766130135985noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-36668070054107691152014-07-14T15:33:17.499+01:002014-07-14T15:33:17.499+01:00You'll need to ask you hand surgeon Lila. Not ...You'll need to ask you hand surgeon Lila. Not much point proceeding with treatment without professional diagnosis.Dave MacLeodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-6494931146240733752014-07-09T14:41:58.289+01:002014-07-09T14:41:58.289+01:00Hello!, very interesting post about Pulley injurie...Hello!, very interesting post about Pulley injuries. 6 weeks ago I heard a "POP" on my pinky finger and stopped for a couple of days but the started climbing. On a boulder problem I crimpped too much and starting hurting again. Since then is very swollen around the interphalangeac joint, it has -5ยบ of extention (which means I can't fully extend it, and hurts when I try to extend it).. I'm very worried, what could it be?Lila Machadohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07471118521295785867noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-7870673986723705582014-04-01T19:16:49.502+01:002014-04-01T19:16:49.502+01:00Hi Dave,
This article is great and should stay up...Hi Dave, <br />This article is great and should stay up for reference. I've written about my recovery after tearing my A3 pulley... www.terryjameswalker.com/climbinginjuryrecovery.html<br />worth a read for anyone on the comeback.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02180266028503634359noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-39204029934913313352012-12-19T18:15:45.914+00:002012-12-19T18:15:45.914+00:00I've been doing ice therapy for so long now wh...I've been doing ice therapy for so long now whenever my fingers feel a little bit stretched, though I can say that other information from your post will be very helpful to me as well. Thanks! <br /><br /><a href="http://www.ftlauderdaleortho.com/" rel="nofollow">Sienna Christie</a>Sienna Christiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07299686704281946616noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-43354880291290627882012-04-19T19:04:49.987+01:002012-04-19T19:04:49.987+01:00Hi Dave,
Thanks for this great article (and blog,...Hi Dave,<br /><br />Thanks for this great article (and blog, and book...). I'm wondering if you have any advice about an avulsion fracture? I had thought I'd torn my A4 pulley - had all the classic symptoms (2 loud pops, unable to crimp, etc.). But after x-rays and ultrasounds, it looks as though there is no tendon tear, but an obvious avulsion fracture instead. I can't find a lot of information about it online wrt to climbers. I'll see a specialist next week, but she's not a climber, so might not understand that my intent, in the long-run, is to put a lot of pressure on that finger again. I'm worried the bone may be permanently weakened. Thanks for any advice! Looking forward to your next book...<br />MarieUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00461944422877729796noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-5722701864631423222011-07-29T15:13:57.914+01:002011-07-29T15:13:57.914+01:00I came across this, because I was reading about pu...I came across this, because I was reading about pulley injuries. I have an injured middle finger pulley and it is my first tendon or pulley injury that I had to stop climbing for and I was not sure what to do. These suggestions are very helpful, because I want it to heal properly. Some people I climb with have told me about the ice baths and the resting. I was wondering if you had any suggestions and if there are any ways to tell when you should start climbing gently again? Also, should I tape it everyday? Some people have told me not to tape it at all. What do you think?Jessnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-1433680958632262542011-05-24T04:06:55.850+01:002011-05-24T04:06:55.850+01:00Hey Dave,
Great book, Great blog, thanks for all ...Hey Dave,<br /><br />Great book, Great blog, thanks for all time and info put into the climbing community. <br /><br />I was wondering if you could touch on something for people rehabbing a pulley strain. Mine has had a strain for 6 weeks and is still not happy to crimp on. I have been climbing exclusively open handed and can still climb full sessions especially training endurance. Once the finger is warm over a endurance session (after 1-2 hours) the finger feels fine and can half crimp with no pain (still only climb open). However the next day the finger feels stiff in the morning and is slightly swollen. This can be rested off in a couple of days or warmed up again for a 2nd day of endurance and still performs fine. So what i would like to know is, in your experience, would you think its ok to continue like this and allow the injury to come right over time or would it make more sense to back off for a month(s). It does not hurt while climbing/training or after i just dont want to prolong the recovery time to getting back to cruxy climbing.<br /><br />Cheers<br /><br />Chrischrisnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-17407040290015993052011-04-13T09:11:01.360+01:002011-04-13T09:11:01.360+01:00Hi Dave,
great post on pulley injuries. Unfortunat...Hi Dave,<br />great post on pulley injuries. Unfortunately I had to read it because I torn my A2 last year (even gave a copy to the rehabilitation expert in my hospital. Reading up on rehabilitation and getting back on the wall I saw one of your articles about eccentric training and found the following article http://iospress.metapress.com/content/c3410185m88k1324/<br />using the following device: http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/index.php?id=81<br /> could you share your thoughts on thisUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06373851642562288624noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-18236738314133563622011-02-06T01:26:19.924+00:002011-02-06T01:26:19.924+00:00Hi Dave. I just today strained my ring finger pul...Hi Dave. I just today strained my ring finger pulley A2 while bouldering. I've been planning on going ice climbing in two weeks- would ice climbing or pull ups delay the healing process? I know that you are not a doctor but I would still appreciate your opinion. Thanks!<br />Bill<br />Ps. Your blog is great!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-40139404620568313322010-05-16T15:06:12.451+01:002010-05-16T15:06:12.451+01:00Hi Dave,
I'm going to be out of climbing for ...Hi Dave,<br /><br />I'm going to be out of climbing for about 9-12 months due to knee surgery and rehab.<br /><br />I'm trying to do some regular chin-ups/fingerboard work to maintain strength (not too bothered about endurance, as I always seem to be able to get that back quite quick).<br /><br />I was interested and encouraged by the point you made in 9 out of 10 climbers about 1 session a week being enough to maintain strength.<br /><br />Is there much information about the reversibility of tendon/pulley strength? It would be nice to come back to climbing with the risk of pulley/tendon injuries minimised.<br /><br />Also, is there any other excercises I can do to maintain strength? I'm going to do some specific core strength stuff to.<br /><br />Ally.<br /><br />Feel free to follow my progress: http://pcl-rehab.blogspot.com/Fultoniushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07198044190933339494noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-91250701618939584762010-05-09T22:08:29.416+01:002010-05-09T22:08:29.416+01:00Just an observation/query regarding taping of an i...Just an observation/query regarding taping of an injured pulley. I diagnosed myself with a torn A3 a few months ago. A climbing layoff did not help at all and I have since been climbing with an open handed grip. I am using finger tape while climbing to help prevent my knuckle from bending fully and this helps prevent me from crimping and promotes the use of open handed grips. I don't know if this actually helps but if anything, it reminds me every time I try to crimp that I shouldn't, not yet at least.Alannoreply@blogger.com