tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post6050034936975766197..comments2024-03-18T11:58:24.478+00:00Comments on Online Climbing Coach: Split tipsDave MacLeodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02442169589581067050noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-92035549929789063812011-05-23T19:45:53.104+01:002011-05-23T19:45:53.104+01:00I think that must be terrible to live something li...I think that must be terrible to live something like this, I mean is truly horrible when you can't do something that you love, is totally unfair.Viagra Onlinehttp://www.iservepharmacy.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-9769646351963722112008-12-02T20:01:00.000+00:002008-12-02T20:01:00.000+00:00Does anyone get split tips from dry skin plus the ...Does anyone get split tips from dry skin plus the pressure of pulling?<BR/>I'm getting these over the winter...The split starts at the side of the nail and runs out to the pad.<BR/>I'll try fixing it with some super glue, but I'd like to avoid them all together...<BR/>ThanksAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-56862468392174785622008-10-25T06:57:00.000+01:002008-10-25T06:57:00.000+01:00This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-64259303983921640472008-10-20T12:42:00.000+01:002008-10-20T12:42:00.000+01:00Good article Dave! Sitting here with a perfectly ...Good article Dave! Sitting here with a perfectly round whole in my index finger sustained on a Carn Brea crystal (Cornish moorland granite to you) it all comes in as pretty relevant too.<BR/><BR/>The temperature comments ring true; I was over extended and slapping for holds when I should've backed off and it was humid enough to feel the sweat break through the chalk during my attempts (and i only live ten minutes from this problem - shame on me!).<BR/><BR/>I tend to agree that the best way to keep those fingers hard is to keep bouldering regularly. This is especially true on rough moorland granite since a certain amount of rippage is a given (I rarely stop climbing on this kind of stuff due to tiredness - its always down to skin levels)<BR/><BR/>Another technique for hardenning off skin is surgical spirits. Just rub it on daily with some cotton wool. Unless you are a masochist though it best to avoid dabbing it directly onto broken skin!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-1586446838014907492008-10-17T09:36:00.000+01:002008-10-17T09:36:00.000+01:00Hi Dave, good post - standing out of the sun is go...Hi Dave, good post - standing out of the sun is good advice. Yes, its nice to sit in the sun but your whole body is connected - if you warm up so do your hands, which means your skin softens and you'll be more prone to splits. At the board I will stand with my hands in front of the fan for 10, 20 even 30 seconds before pulling on. <BR/><BR/>Rather than pulling a flap off - cut it as close to the finger as you can and then sand it back flush. As you say - this is preference, but it works better for me than pulling at a flap, which I worry will tear a bigger flap off than I want to loose. <BR/><BR/>Superglue - you can tape over wet superglue for a sort of hybrid split/extra skin layer - it holds the tape down and in place. Much of the problem with climbing with tape on is that it moves, this helps. <BR/><BR/>If you are eating between attempts - wash your hands before you next chalk up. I've noticed that even dipping my hands in a river at the crag and rubbing them together helps to remove an imperceptable layer of grease. Suppose that depends what you're eating. <BR/><BR/>Rather than buying rubber gloves - buy a dishwasher! wont work for everyone/isnt very environmentally friendly, you might not have space! <BR/><BR/>interesting point about plasters. I've always left them open to the air, but this means they go hard, so I sand them again then. It seems to be important to sand back to 'ground zero', ie no surface burs to let the skin grow back without having to grow around an 'impurity' - which in turn leads to repeat cracking/further splits. <BR/><BR/>Moisturiser - I use climb on, but people keep recommending Elizabeth Arden 8hr cream. My fi(n)ance says this is expensive and greasy so I havent tried it yet. Again, if you are going to moisturise on the same day you will be climbing - wash your hands before chalking up! <BR/><BR/>Finally, Anti-hydral - stump cream. Be careful with this stuff. Knowledge seems to be to apply a tiny blob (literally just touch the tube on the pad) to the pads of one hand (i.e. the finger tip - nowhere else) and then touch those fingers across to the other hand - that really is all you need (well, I need anyway). If you have a split or a burr (an imperfection) do not even go near it! it will split or crack. I do this just before bed, then I waft my hands about so that it dries on. You can then touch things without it coming off - dont go wild though, and if its going to be a night of passion - do without the anti hydral! You only need to use it once every couple of weeks. Its best applied on good skin, or on thin but unsplit skin. DO NOT APPLY ON SPLITS! <BR/><BR/>Reading back through the above, and in agreement with Dave's final para - one man struggles whilst another relaxes - whatever works for you. Noone has all the answers.dobbinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02806176039386925928noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-23111913871270920302008-10-13T05:59:00.000+01:002008-10-13T05:59:00.000+01:00You're so right Dave, keep those tips dry at all c...You're so right Dave, keep those tips dry at all costs! Check out these <A HREF="http://qurank.smugmug.com/photos/25136112_rvPa9-M.jpg" REL="nofollow">bunch of climbers in the hot-tub</A>.Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31845824.post-15444226267458092862008-10-13T05:57:00.000+01:002008-10-13T05:57:00.000+01:00This comment has been removed by the author.Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com