Since this site is one of the main places on the web to get information about training for climbing and our shop sells all the best books on the matter, it was about time we started selling some of the best training equipment too. So priority number one was to get hold of the best fingerboards on the market right now; the Beastmakers.
Designed by Font 8b+ boulderers and made out of rather lovely skin friendly wood, their design is clearly a labour of love and that is why they have become so popular in the UK. Oh, and they make your fingers strong. Well, owning one isn’t enough on it’s own. It’s the numbers of hangs clocked up that get makes the jumps in grades we all want. But having a well designed and skin friendly hangboard is a good first step.
I started fingerboarding in summer 2005 just after I first tried Rhapsody. At the time I was climbing F8b and the odd 8b+ and about 8A on boulders. After a solid summer doing my deadhangs most days I got back on the sport climbs in the autumn and was blown away to discover I could now climb 8c. The following year I did Rhapsody and the year after that my first 9a.
That raw finger strength was obviously the ingredient that propelled me forward to grades I never thought I’d get to. There are of course many young strong lads I’ve seen and coached in walls up and down the UK who would wipe the floor with me on a hangboard yet can’t climb nearly as hard outside, since power is nothing without technique. And technique is just as hard won as finger strength.
So every climber needs to have a balance between learning technique and learning to pull hard. However, every climber who spends any time training or aspiring to harder grades should have and use a fingerboard. And if they are going to own any one, a Beastmaker is a pretty good choice.
We are stocking both the 1000 and 2000 models. The 1000 is designed with those new to training in mind (Font 5-7C) and the 2000 is a better choice for those already used to bouldering walls and basic strength equipment (7C-8C). They cost £75 with our normal £1.50 shipping. Shipping to Europe and the rest of the world are at normal Royal Mail rates.
The Milo of Croton school of training with Freida MacLeod. I wonder how long I can still manage this?
Freida getting started with some assisted hangs
Another great post. I wonder if it wouldn't be asking to much for you to do a post about training on a fingerboard? It might seem obvious but I'm sure there are plenty of people reading this blog, many of whom are likely never to employ the services of a coach, that don't really know where to start - or worse, are doing it entirely wrong and causing damage as a result. A couple of helpful hints would be well appreciated.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the excellent blog - always de-rigeur lunchtime reading!
Pete
Yes, I would also enjoy a training post. I am especially curious about those 45 degree slopers, my hands just slip right off, I don't feel like I can apply any pressure at all to them - am I missing something? It does not feel like any amount of strength would help, as I slip off before my fingers even "unfold" at all!
ReplyDeleteMost of the details for fingerboarding are in my book. Was there anything outside of what's written there that still needs more detail?
ReplyDeleteJohn and Mel. Strength is the only thing missing I'm afraid! They are hangable if you have large amounts. If you need to see it to believe then here are 2 videos:
http://vimeo.com/35829837
http://vimeo.com/24390459
Thanks Dave. Better buy your book then! ;)
ReplyDeleteI have a very dumb seeming question: which difficulty scale do you use? Because I am only familiar with the UIAA scale and I wonder what all your difficulties mean.
ReplyDeleteThank you for answering!