Last time I checked, I could do 24 pull-ups on a bar. A tiny amount for a climber at my grade. Fortunately, being super strong at one strength measure is not so important as being equally strong at holding onto any type of hold. Last time I checked, I could do 24 pull-ups on a bar, on crimps, on slopers and on openhanded pockets. Those who are super strong in one area but weak on another might not be as good at climbing as they could/should. Those who aren’t so strong at any type of hold or exercise, but not weak on any either are much more likely to climb at a surprisingly high level given they are not exceptionally strong at anything.If there is a type of move/hold/angle you hate, attack it until you love it.
I completely agree with you. For a few years after I started climbing I was very weak at doing overhangs. Great at technical slabs and vertical but as soon as there was any overhang I would fall off. So, despite the fact I didn't enjoy climbing overhangs I persisted at training for them and, with the help of a good friend, overhangs are now one of my favourite types of climbing. The interesting thing is that I still struggle to do a single pull-up but can still climb a F6c. Now time to tackle my other big weakness... sloppers!
ReplyDeleteslopers
ReplyDeleteanyway didn't jibe famously say 8bplus was the equivqalent of 30 finger tip pull ups. 6 more to go!
24 pulls ? no way you're an expert, I can't do even five!
ReplyDeleteQuite effective info, thanks so much for the post.
ReplyDeleteInteresting my colleague does around 15 pull ups in a row and he is great in dynos,deadpoinsts etc. I will do 18 in a row 2sec rest and another 7 so 25 total but I'm nowhere near him with dynos, dearpoints technique. He is much stronger in bouldering on the rope we doing similar gradesbv - any suggestions ?
ReplyDeleteInteresting my colleague does around 15 pull ups in a row and he is great in dynos,deadpoinsts etc. I will do 18 in a row 2sec rest and another 7 so 25 total but I'm nowhere near him with dynos, dearpoints technique. He is much stronger in bouldering on the rope we doing similar gradesbv - any suggestions ?
ReplyDelete